Wigan hotelier to prepare near obsolete dish brawn for pensioners and charities
It used to be the staple of many a working family’s dinner but, like tripe, brawn has had a bad press in recent decades and is now rarely served.
But businessman, hotelier and “frustrated cook” Bill Kenyon plans to create a 10lb serving of the foodstuff, sometimes unappetisingly known as head cheese (despite there being no dairy in it), and made from a pig’s head.
It has been a tradition for the owner of Holland Hall at Up Holland to make some around Christmas time for several years and take it to nursing homes, but this festive season he is offering it up for grabs, not only to care homes but also charities and individuals who either remember liking brawn when it was popular or are just curious.
The dish resembles a rough pate in gelatine and versions of it remain popular in several other parts of the world.
Bill certainly knows his food and is proud of being an “adventurous eater.” He also once featured on Michelin-starred chef Glynn Purnell’s TV show My Kitchen Rules.
The 78-year-old said: “You used to be able to buy brawn at the butchers but now you can’t get it anywhere. Tastes have changed and some people are squeamish.
"But it’s an excellent dish and there are still people out there who fondly remember it and others who would be happy to try it.
"We have the last of our hog roasts at Holland Hall on December 7 and I am as keen as my dad was not to waste any part of the animal. As he used to say 'they only parts of a pig you don’t find use for is the squeak!’”
The old-fashioned way of creating brawn would simply to cook the head for days on end, but Bill’s technique involves first boiling the head, letting it cool, washing it, seasoning it and then vacuum-sealing it before putting it in a water bath for 30 hours. Once cooked, the bones are removed, more seasoning is added and it is bagged.
Bill said: “I’ll be making enough for 40 portions so the day after the roast – Monday December 8 – charities, care homes and so on can get in touch and ask to take some away free.”
Anyone interested should ring Holland Hall on 01695 624426.